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2012-1-6 08:59
The best thing about Kowloon, according to jaded expats, is its view of Hong Kong Island.
But Kowloon -- the tiny peninsula connecting Hong Kong to mainland China -- offers more than simply a vantage point. It is often the more bustling side of town, and though it has long been associated with outdoor markets and teeming crowds, in recent years it's taken a step toward the upscale. Hong Kong Island remains the territory's commercial heart, but Kowloon is now home to many of its most luxurious hotels, including the Peninsula and InterContinental, and contains some of Hong Kong's most interesting nightlife. Start at the top: the 118th floor of the Ritz-Carlton at the International Commerce Centre. There you'll find Ozone, located on the roof of the 'highest' hotel in the world and the tallest building in all of Hong Kong. The Ritz opened earlier this year, and Ozone provides the closest thing to an aerial view of Victoria Harbour without chartering a helicopter (not that that's out of the question -- just head to the Peninsula). Ozone stays open till 1 a.m. on weeknights, so expect to see a lot of suits who work in the lower floors of the building, sipping well-made, high-priced classic cocktails. It goes till 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday nights. A cheaper option for panoramic drinks is Cocky Bar, located on the 18th floor of the One, a shopping complex in Tsim Sha Tsui, a Kowloon neighborhood just across the harbor from Hong Kong's Central district. While not as high as the Ritz, it is popular with locals on dates who want to watch the sun set from its outdoor patio. Dinner at Nanhai No. 1, located on the 30th floor of the nearby iSquare shopping center, is Cantonese food with a contemporary twist. Dishes like crispy rice in a creamy lobster broth, or scallops stir-fried with morel mushrooms, show a chef who isn't afraid to stray from convention. The latest Michelin Guide awarded it with one star, and you won't have to wait two weeks to get a table. Shopping is the lifeblood of Kowloon, particularly the neighborhood of Mongkok, one of the most densely populated ones in the world. Tourists flock to the cramped Ladies Market on Tung Choi Street, but unless you're looking for vinyl Prada knockoff wallets or fluorescent Yankees caps, skip it. The offerings at the Temple Street markets (starting north from Jordan Road) aren't too tempting either -- electric razors and tube socks, anyone? -- but the street scene, with stalls and outdoor restaurants side-by-side, is why you go. Continue north to the corner of Public Square and Temple streets, and you'll find the local fortune-telling hub, where dozens of soothsayers are eager to tell you about your love life and investment returns for the year ahead. For about 200 Hong Kong dollars, of course. For bar-hopping at street level, a night out can either start or end on Hart Avenue, perhaps Kowloon's most debaucherous street and home to a string of pubs whose patrons spill, sometimes literally, onto the sidewalk. To see how locals kick back, head to a basement bar called UFO. Cantopop blares, dice is played, and glasses of beer are quickly drained. The best of the strip is a tavern called Hair of the Dog. In addition to Guinness, it has a jukebox, so you can listen to something besides the Katy Perry and Lady Gaga tunes that dominate the city streets. Elsewhere, live jazz is always on tap at Ned Kelly's Last Stand, a popular expat hangout. A younger crowd lingers across the street at Castro's, a Cuban-themed bar on the second floor of a building. Neighborhood hipsters squeeze into Phonograph, one of the only bars in Kowloon that will play a Radiohead album in its entirety. It features drinks made with Yakult, a Japanese dairy drink with a yogurt-like tang. For calmer options, head to the outdoor lounges of the area's hotels. The Backyard, in Mongkok's Langham Place, and the fifth-floor patio at Vibes in the Mira Hotel offer rare tranquility. There you can collapse into a sofa, listen to the city hum and relax with a cocktail, wondering how Kowloon ever got a bad rap. The Details Ozone 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon Cocky Bar 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd. Nanhai No. 1 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd. The Backyard Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St. Vibes 5/F, Mira Hotel, 118 Nathan Rd. The Hair of the Dog Supreme House, 2A Hart Ave. UFO 11 Hart Ave. Ned Kelly's Last Stand 11A Ashley Rd. Castro's 16 Ashley Rd. Phonograph 2 Austin Ave. The Backyard位于朗豪酒店的The Backyard
在那些熟谙香港的老外眼中，九龙最大的可取之处是能看到香港岛的美景。 Ozone位于丽思卡尔顿酒店的Ozone酒吧但这个连接香港和内地的小小半岛所拥有的不只是一个优越的位置。九龙通常都是熙攘喧闹的，尽管它素来被人们与露天市场和拥挤人流联系在一起，但在近几年也已经向高端迈进了一步。香港的商业中心依旧是香港岛，但九龙现在坐拥着许多最奢华的酒店，包括半岛酒店（Peninsula）和洲际酒店（InterContinental），这里还有香港最有意思的夜生活。 从位置最高的地方开始说起吧：环球贸易广场（International Commerce Centre）丽思卡尔顿酒店（Ritz-Carlton）118层。这里有Ozone酒吧，位于这个世界“最高”酒店以及香港最高建筑的顶层。丽思卡尔顿于2011年开业，在Ozone酒吧能享受到最接近于搭乘直升机鸟瞰维多利亚港（Victoria Harbour）的体验（真要想乘坐直升机当然也没问题，只要去半岛酒店就可以了）。 Ozone周一至周五营业至凌晨1点，所以你会看到很多在同一幢大楼低楼层工作的穿着套装的人，在浅酌慢品精心调制的昂贵的经典鸡尾酒。周五和周六晚营业至凌晨两点。 Cocky Bar位于尖沙咀The One购物中心的嚣吧同样能将港岛美景尽收眼底的一个相对实惠的去处是嚣吧（Cocky Bar），位于尖沙咀The One购物中心的18层。尖沙咀对岸就是中环。嚣吧虽然不如丽思卡尔顿高，但却是当地人约会的热门地点，他们喜欢在这里的室外天台欣赏日落。 晚餐可以在附近iSquare购物中心30层的南海一号（Nanhai No. 1）解决，这里供应的是融合了现代口味的粤菜。龙虾汤泡贵妃饭和羊肚菌炒扇贝等菜肴表明这里的主厨敢于突破传统。最新的《米其林指南》（Michelin Guide）将南海一号评为一星级餐厅，但是在这里订位并不需要等上漫长的两星期。 Nanhai No. 1南海一号的龙虾汤泡贵妃饭。购物是九龙的活力源泉，特别是旺角地区，它是全世界人口最密集的地方之一。游客蜂拥前往通菜街（Tung Choi Street）上狭窄拥挤的女人街（Ladies Market），但如果你不想找乙烯基材料的仿Prada钱包或荧光效果的Yankee棒球帽，那还是别去了。从佐敦道（Jordan Road）开始一直向北延伸的庙街（Temple Street）集市也算不上特别诱人（有人想买电子剃须刀和无跟短筒袜吗？），但路边摊和露天餐厅鳞次栉比的景象值得一观。继续向北到众坊街（Public Square Street）和庙街的街角，就到了当地算命摊位的聚集地，几十个算命先生热切地想要跟你谈谈你未来一年的爱情生活和投资回报。当然不是免费的，需要大概200港元的费用。 要在街上泡吧，不妨以赫德道（Hart Avenue）作为夜生活的起点或终点，这或许是九龙最声色犬马的一条街，酒吧随处可见，街上到处都是泡吧的客人。要见识当地人如何放松，就去一个名叫UFO的地下室酒吧：这里播放着刺耳的粤语流行歌，客人们一边玩着骰子，一边一杯接一杯地消耗着啤酒。 Vibes如果喜欢安静，位于美丽华酒店的Vibes露天花园也是个好去处这一带最棒的去处是一家名叫Hair of the Dog的酒馆。除供应Guinness黑啤酒外，这家酒馆还有一台投币式自动唱机，所以除了满大街都在放的凯蒂•佩里（Katy Perry）和蕾蒂•嘎嘎（Lady Gaga）的歌，你可以在这里听些其他的音乐。广受外籍人士欢迎的Ned Kelly's Last Stand总是有现场爵士乐表演。年轻人喜欢在对面二层的古巴主题酒吧Castro's里消磨时光。Phonograph挤满了当地的时尚人士，这是九龙会播放电台司令乐队（Radiohead）整张专辑的少数几个酒吧之一，酒吧供应Yakult制成的特色饮料，Yakult是一种酸奶味的日本奶制饮品。 如果喜欢安静，就去那些大酒店的户外雅座。旺角朗豪酒店（Langham Place）的The Backyard和位于美丽华酒店（Mira Hotel）五层的Vibes露天花园咖啡座拥有极其幽静的环境。你可以窝在沙发里，聆听都市的声音，啜饮一杯鸡尾酒放松身心，一边疑惑九龙何以会声名不佳。 --- 详情： Ozone 西九龙柯士甸道西1号丽思卡尔顿酒店118楼 嚣吧 尖沙咀弥敦道100号The One 18楼 南海一号 弥敦道63号iSqure广场30层 The Backyard 上海街555号朗豪酒店 Vibes 弥敦道118号美丽华酒店5层 The Hair of the Dog 赫德道2A Supreme House UFO 赫德道11号 Ned Kelly's Last Stand 亚士厘道11A Castro's 亚士厘道16号 Phonograph 柯士甸道2号 |