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2012-3-12 09:34
Single-malt, 18-year-old Scotch mixed with bottled green tea, anyone?
The concoction ─ the subject of many a nightlife horror story by visitors to China ─ isn't as popular as it used to be, but it remains an apt metaphor for Beijing's nightlife, which prefers its high with a splash of low. That distinguishes the city from the more Westernized Shanghai. 'In Shanghai, it's about how much money you can spend,' says Leon Lee, a San Franciscan who owns bars in both Shanghai and Beijing. 'Beijing is edgier, a little rough around the edges,' he adds. 'It's more fun to go out in Beijing.' As money and mixologists have streamed into the city, its upscale options have grown. Start by checking out Sanlitun, Beijing's preeminent drinking district. Once a sweaty Babylon where shadowy figures tried to beckon male visitors to 'lady bars,' Sanlitun is now home to Nali Patio, a six-story, Mediterranean-themed courtyard complex that houses several bars and restaurants. Here, the main attraction is Apothecary, a sleek, third-floor speakeasy. Run by Mr. Lee, its extensive drinks menu doubles as a cocktail-history textbook and includes an expertly executed Old Fashioned (with optional bacon-infused bourbon) and an Earl Grey martini made with handcrafted bitters and topped with whipped egg whites. Prices are reminiscent of Manhattan, but so is the quality. Other Nali Patio options include Enoterra, a welcoming wine bar on the fourth floor, and Migas, a Spanish restaurant and bar with an industrial-chic dining room and an expansive rooftop patio. For a quieter night out, go east of the Third Ring Road to an entertainment district known as Lucky Street. There you'll find Mokihi, an unassuming Japanese whiskey bar located on an upper floor along the southern end of the street. Bypass the main room for the back area, where bartenders ply their trade in a room lined with bottles of single-malt whiskey and infused liquors. If you're hungry, order a plate of Wagyu sashimi from K's Kitchen next door, and pair it with a wasabi martini. To go deeper into Beijing's soul, head inside the Second Ring Road to Dongcheng. An older part of the city, Dongcheng is one of the last repositories of the city's beloved hutong ─ maze-like alleyways where history, politics and culture brush up against each other to fascinating effect. Few nightlife spots epitomize that better than Yugong Yishan, a music venue inside a complex that once housed the government of warlord Duan Qirui. It hosts everything from punk rock shows to film screenings to underground rebel bingo and keeps its patrons well lubricated with cheap Tsingtao. A few kilometers away is Gulou Dongdajie, a street teeming with pubs, guitar shops and vintage clothing stores that serves as Beijing's answer to San Francisco's Haight Ashbury neighborhood. In a courtyard house tucked away in an alley, you'll find Amilal, one of the favorite haunts of the city's expatriate literati. Run by a Mongolian photographer who uses the space to host exhibitions of his friends' work, it's an excellent place to decompress after taking in a live show. Another hutong option is Mao Mao Chong, a five-table bar that does a steady trade in China-themed mixed drinks such as the Maojito, a gingery take on the Mojito, and the Jing Fling, a cocktail based on China's not-for-the-faint-of-heart baijiu liquor. If you're still going strong at midnight, two after-hours destinations, Lantern and Haze, beckon. Lantern, run by Beijing electronic-music label Acupuncture Records, ministers to heaving weekend crowds. Haze caters to hipsters and offers the added late-night challenge of being located at the bottom of one of the city's most perilous staircases. Apothecary, Third floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6040 Enoterra, Fourth floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6076 Migas, Sixth floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6061 Mokihi, Third floor, C12, Lucky Street, Tel.: 86-10-5867-0244 Yugong Yishan, 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu, Tel.: 86-10-6404-2711 Amilal, 48 Shoubi Hutong, south 66 Gulou Dongdajie, Tel.: 86-10-8404-1416 Mao Mao Chong, 12 Ban Chang Hutong, Tel.: 86-10-6405-5718 Lantern, 100 meters north of Workers Stadium West Gate, Tel.: 86-135 0134 8785 Haze, A101, Guanghua Lu SOHO, 22 Guanghua Lu (basement of On the Corner Cafe), Tel.:86-10-5900-6128 Ann Waddell for The Wall Street JournalMokihi酒吧是在北京扎根的众多日本威士忌酒吧中的一个。注重细节令这家店与众不同。
18年单一麦芽苏格兰威士忌加瓶装绿茶,有人想尝试一下吗? 这种奇特的搭配曾是许多来中国的游客夜生活恐怖遭遇的一个主题,现在它虽然不像以前那么流行了,但用来比喻北京夜生活依然再合适不过。北京夜生活的特点就是雅中带俗。 这点将北京与更为西化的上海区分开来。在上海和北京都开有酒吧的旧金山人里昂•李(Leon Lee)说,在上海,重点在于你有多少钱可以花。 他接着说,北京则更刺激,有点锋芒毕露;北京的夜生活更好玩。 Ann Waddell for The Wall Street Journal图片:酒吧里的北京夜生活随着越来越多的财富以及调酒师涌入这个城市,高消费选择变得更多了起来。从北京名气最响的三里屯酒吧区说起吧。这里曾是乌烟瘴气的奢靡之地,一群群面目模糊的家伙试图拉男性游客光顾“小姐酒吧”。现在,那里花园(Nali Patio)进驻了三里屯,这是一个地中海主题的六层庭院式建筑,其中有好几家酒吧和餐厅。 这里最有名的是位于三层的时尚酒吧Apothecary,老板就是里昂•李。其品种繁多的酒单同时也是一本鸡尾酒历史教科书,其中包括行家调制的古典鸡尾酒(Old Fashioned,也可选择用培根波旁酒来调制),还有一种伯爵茶马提尼,由手工苦酒制成,上面覆盖一层鸡蛋清打成的泡沫。这里的价格与曼哈顿相差无几,品质也相当。 在那里花园还可选择位于四层气氛友好的Enoterra酒吧,以及西班牙餐吧米加思(Migas),后者拥有一个工业酷感风格的就餐区以及宽敞的屋顶露台。 如果喜欢安静些,可以前往东三环一个名叫好运街的娱乐区。在那里你会找到低调的日本威士忌酒吧Mokihi,坐落在好运街南端一栋建筑的楼上。穿过大厅,后头是一间摆满单一麦芽威士忌和泡酒的屋子,侍者们在忙碌地工作着。如果肚子饿了,可以从隔壁的K’s Kitchen要上一盘和牛刺身,然后配上一杯芥末马提尼。 如果想更深入了解北京的夜生活灵魂,就要去二环内的东城。作为比较古老的一个区,东城是北京最后的几个胡同聚集地之一。在这些深受人们喜爱、迷宫似的小巷里,历史、政治和文化互相融合碰撞,产生了极为神奇的效应。 没有哪家夜店能比“愚公移山”更好地诠释这一点了。这是一个演艺酒吧,坐落在段祺瑞执政府旧址内。酒吧举办从朋克摇滚演出到电影放映到地下叛逆宾戈(underground rebel bingo)在内的各类活动,价格低廉的青岛啤酒让顾客喝得酣畅淋漓。 几公里外就是鼓楼东大街,这条街上布满了酒吧、吉他店和古着店,感觉就像是北京版的Haight Ashbury(旧金山的嬉皮区)。Amilal酒吧隐匿于巷子里的一个四合院内,它是旅居北京的外国文人雅士最喜欢光顾的地方之一。经营者是一位蒙古摄影师,他在这里为朋友的作品举办展览。这是看完现场演出后放松的好地方。 还有一个胡同里的好去处是“毛毛虫”,这是一家只有五张桌子的酒吧,专门提供中国主题的混合饮品,比如从传统莫吉托改良而来的“毛毛虫莫吉托”,还有Jing Fling,一款用中国烈性白酒调配而成的鸡尾酒。 如果你在深夜依然精力旺盛,那么灯笼俱乐部(Lantern)和Haze俱乐部这两家深夜营业的酒吧就是不错的选择。灯笼俱乐部由北京知名电子乐乐队“针刺疗法”(Acupuncture Records)经营,每逢周末就人潮涌动。而Haze则专门针对时尚人士,到达酒吧需要下全北京最危险的一段楼梯,这为深夜光顾的人们增添了挑战性。 Apothecary:三里屯北路81号那里花园3层,电话:86-10-5208-6040 Enoterra:三里屯北路81号那里花园4层,电话:86-10-5208-6076 米加思(Migas):三里屯北路81号那里花园6层,电话:86-10-5208-6061 Mokihi:好运街C12商铺3层,电话:86-10-5867-0244 愚公移山:张自忠路3-2号,电话:86-10-6404-2711 Amilal:鼓楼东大街66号南侧寿比胡同48号院,电话:86-10-8404-1416 毛毛虫:板厂胡同12号,电话:86-10-6405-5718 灯笼俱乐部:工人体育场西门向北100 米,电话:86-135 0134 8785 Haze:光华路22号光华路SOHO A101(转角咖啡店地下),电话:86-10-5900-6128 |