【英语生活】葡萄酒入门：粉红葡萄酒

Rosé is often associated with bad wedding receptions and avoided by men for its color. But don't let those stigmas color your opinion of this wine-rosé can be a delightful staple during the summer, especially when served alongside the grill. There are, however, many variations. Here's the lowdown on what the French call 'pink':

Several varietals, several regions: Rosé comes from all over, in all sorts of varietals. In France, they make it from Grenache, Syrah or lesser-known varietals like Mourvedre and Carignan. In the French Loire valley, the best rosés are made from a mix of Cabernet Franc and other grapes. Champagne often makes single-varietal rosé wines from Pinot Noir grapes. As for the name, in Italy, it's called rosata and in Spain, it's called rosado, and in California, it's sometimes called 'pink wine'- and all regions use different kinds of fruit.

Quick time: There are several methods to make rosé but the most regarded technique is through 'abbreviated red wine vinification,' which is a fancy phrase to describe the following: Black-skinned grapes are crushed and the skins remain in contact for up to three days before the pale-colored juice is run off to continue fermenting. The short amount of contact with the skins is similar to a short steep in making tea. Usually the grapes used aren't fully ripened, so there isn't too much sugar in the wine. This keeps the drink light and refreshing.

The California way: A less-reputable method among Europeans, but popular among Californians, is called saignée, which means 'bleeding' in French. This is a way to intensify red wine, with rosé being more of a by-product than the intended result of the process. The technique requires lightly crushing the grapes-as opposed to pressing the fruit. Then the skin-and-juice mixture sits for 12-24 hours. A small portion of the juice-pale in color-is run off and fermented without the skins, while the the remainder of the juice will remain with the skins and eventually be turned into red wine. The knock on this technique is that sometimes it uses fully ripened grapes that are full of sugar. After fermentation, the high sugar content renders the wine with high levels of alcohol-sometimes too much for a delicate wine like rosé to handle. Not all rosés made in this manner are that way, but chances are that the cloying, heavy or too-sweet rosé that you drank at your nephew's nuptials last year was made using this technique.

Blending white and red: The third and least-regarded rosé-making technique is the simple blending of red and white wines to get the desired color. In Europe, wine authorities forbid this technique, except in Champagne, and even there the top makers of sparkling rosé won't blend the wines. The EU contemplated allowing blending but the French lobbied hard to prevent it from passing. France's agricultural minister said it was a victory 'to defend our culinary way of life.'

Think summer food: Rosés are so varied it's difficult to generalize what food matches best. That said, it's a quintessential summer drink, so anything you'd eat at a summer picnic-grilled seafood, salads, and olives just to name a few-would likely go well with a glass of pink. Just remember, keep rosé chilled. It's supposed to be refreshing, after all.

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粉红葡萄酒(Rose，又名玫瑰红酒)常常让人联想到拙劣的婚宴，而且因为颜色的缘故，男士对它避之唯恐不及。但不要让这些污名影响你对这种酒的看法。粉红葡萄酒在夏天可以成为一种爽口的主打饮品，特别是在跟烧烤一起奉上的时候。但粉红葡萄酒也分很多种。本文为你揭开这种酒的秘密：

多个品种，多个产区：粉红葡萄酒在很多地方都有生产，种类繁多。法国酿制粉红葡萄酒采用的是歌海娜(Grenache)葡萄、西拉(Syrah)葡萄，或知名度不那么高的品种如穆尔韦德(Mourvedre)和佳丽酿(Carignan)。在法国的卢瓦尔(Loire)河谷，最好的粉红葡萄酒是用嘉本纳弗朗(Cabernet Franc)和其他葡萄品种混合酿成的。香槟省常常是利用黑品乐(Pinot Noir)葡萄酿制单品种粉红葡萄酒。在名称上，意大利叫做“rosata”，西班牙叫“rosado”，美国加州有时称之为“pink wine”，而且所有地区都用不同的葡萄酿造。

快速酿造法：粉红葡萄酒有多种酿造方法，其中最受推崇的是“简略式红葡萄酒酿造法”(abbreviated red wine vinification)。这个复杂词组描述的是这样一个过程：挤压黑皮葡萄，让皮与汁一起浸泡最长三天，然后滤出灰白色汁水继续发酵。与葡萄皮的短时接触类似于泡茶时短暂的浸泡。通常来讲，所用的葡萄没有完全成熟，所以酿出来的酒中含糖不多，口感柔和、清爽。

加州酿造法：一种不为欧洲人待见、但在加州很流行的酿造方法叫做“出血”(法语：saignee)。这本是一种加强红葡萄酒浓郁程度的方法，粉红葡萄酒在其中与其说是有心栽花，不如说是无心插柳。这种技术要求对葡萄进行轻度挤压，而不是将其压扁。然后要将皮和汁一起浸泡12到24小时。接着将少量已经变为灰白色的葡萄汁滤出，单独发酵。其余葡萄汁仍和葡萄皮放在一起，最终酿成红葡萄酒。这种方法的劣势在于，它有时候使用含有很多糖份的全熟葡萄，发酵后，高含糖量使得酿出来的酒具有较高的酒精度──对于像粉红葡萄酒这样的酒来说，有时候就过烈了。并非所有采用这种方法酿制的粉红葡萄酒都会这样，但如果你去年在侄子的婚礼上喝到的粉红葡萄酒发腻、浓烈或过甜，那么这种酒很可能就是用这种方法酿造的。

红与白的混合：第三种、也是最不受欢迎的粉红葡萄酒酿制方法，是直接把红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒混在一起，获得想要的那种颜色。欧洲的白葡萄酒主管机构禁止采用在种方法，只有法国香槟省除外。但就算是在香槟省，那里的优质粉红葡萄酒顶级生产商也不会将红白葡萄酒混合。欧盟曾考虑是否允许混合，但法国通过强力游说予以阻止，使之未获通过。法国农业部说，这是“保卫我们的饮食生活方式”取得的胜利。

搭配夏季食物：粉红葡萄酒品种繁多，所以很难总结出哪些食物跟它搭配是最好的。但它是一种经典的夏季饮品，所以在夏天野餐会上不管吃什么，比如烧烤海鲜、色拉和橄榄等等，来一杯粉红葡萄酒可能都是绝佳搭配。只需记住，粉红葡萄酒应冰镇饮用，毕竟它应该是要给你清爽的感觉。