【英语国际】欧洲人喜欢的美丽小城

双语秀   2016-05-17 04:07   89   0  

2010-9-29 00:08

小艾摘要: Forget Venice ... Try Treviso Treviso is just a 20-minute train ride from the centre of Venice but it feels like a different world, writes John Brunton. Not so much in appearance – pretty balconied h ...
Forget Venice ... Try Treviso Treviso is just a 20-minute train ride from the centre of Venice but it feels like a different world, writes John Brunton. Not so much in appearance – pretty balconied houses look out over canals, medieval church towers protrude above terracotta-tiled roofs, and café tables spill out over cobbled piazzas – as in the absence of tourist hordes. There are excellent restaurants without a rip-off menu turistico in sight and whereas in Venice you can feel at best tolerated by locals, here there’s a warm welcome; expect your drink to be set down with a smile and a plate of free nibbles. There is one major museum, the Casa dei Carraresi, and its next exhibition (opening on November 13) examines the relationship between artists and their models, from Canova, who came from nearby Possagno, to Van Gogh, Picasso and Warhol. Where to stay: Treviso is known for its small, comfy hotels rather than five-star luxury, but a chic newcomer is Maison Matilda (Via Riccati 44, www.maisonmatilda.com; doubles from ¢240), a designer B&B in an elegant mansion. The centrally-located Albergo Il Focolare (Piazza Ancilotto 4, www.albergoilfocolare.net; ¢100) can’t be beaten for value for money. For the fashion crowd there is the Relais Monaco (Via Postumia 63, Ponzano Veneto, www.relaismonaco.it; ¢250), owned by Benetto, which has its headquarters in Treviso. A sumptuous villa less than four miles out of town, it has a pool and nearby golf course. What to do: As well as the museum, there’s a 12th-century cathedral but coming here is more about soaking up the Italian spirit than rushing around the sights. Treviso is one of Italy’s fashion capitals and it is easy to spend a day in the luxury boutiques that line Via Calmaggiore. Afterwards, enjoy a quiet walk along the shady Buranelli canal or past the grand villas and medieval city wall. A wander among the noisy fishmongers of the pescheria and adjoining fruit and vegetable market is a must for foodies, as is a glass of wine and a plate of porchetta (roast suckling pig) at nearby Osteria Muscoli (Via Pescheria 23). Where to eat: Hip locals like to be seen at Toula Da Alfredo (Via Collalto 26, tel: +39 0422 540275) but to get a real feel for Treviso reserve a table in a traditional trattoria. Le Beccherie (Piazza Ancilotto 11, tel: +39 0422 540871) is a gastronomic institution and serves a delicious faraona alla peverada, guinea fowl with a sweet pomegranate sauce. Toni del Spin (Via Inferiore 7, tel: +39 0422 543829) is a wonderful wood-panelled trattoria, always full, and the best place to try sarde in saor, sardines cooked with raisins, pine nuts and onions. Where to drink: The evening kicks off early in this party-loving town with an aperitivo – try the local favourite, spritz al bitter (white wine, Campari and a splash of soda). The funkiest spot is either Sottoportico (Via Buranelli 29), where crowds spill on to the canal, or the stylish Mamamia (Borgo Mazzini 50). Treviso is surrounded by vineyards and wine lovers shouldn’t miss Dai Nanetti (Vicolo Broli 2), a rustic osteria with an exceptional choice of vintages. Details: Treviso Tourism Office: tel: +39 0422 547632; www.provincia.treviso.it. Treviso airport is three miles from the centre. John Brunton is co-author of ‘Italie: Alchimie des sens’ (Vilo)

--------------------------------------------------------------- Forget Brussels ... Try Antwerp Antwerp has been sought after and fought over for centuries thanks to its sheltered position on the estuary of the River Scheldt, writes Hettie Judah. The legacy is a patchwork of ancient and modern architecture in which baroque rubs up against art deco, while the city’s blossoming contemporary face includes buildings by architects Rogers, Stirk, Harbour + Partners and Neutelings Riedijk. The city centre is dreadful by car but wonderful on foot. The south is the cultural heartland, where the contemporary art museum M HKA (Leuvenstraat 32, www.mhka.be) and the Royal Museum of Fine Arts (Leopold De Waelplaats, www.kmska.be) are collaborating this autumn to present a retrospective of Anselm Kiefer (October 23 to January 23 2011). A short walk up Nationalestraat is MoMu (Nationalestraat 28, www.momu.be), the city’s fashion museum, and north of this is the ancient city centre and the Eilandje docklands where a spectacular new city museum will open next spring. Where to stay: Maison Delaneau (Karel Rogierstraat 18, www.maisondelaneau.com; doubles from ¢140) is a discreetly luxurious 10-bedroom hotel in the arty south. Alternatively, the spirited renovation (think religious artefacts and taxidermy) and fabulous welcome at Boulevard Leopold (Belgi?lei 135, www.boulevard-leopold.be; ¢115), a late-19th-century townhouse, make it one of the city’s most coveted places to stay. It also rents out two fabulously styled apartments (from ¢140). What to do: Aside from its art museums and architectural gems Antwerp’s big draw these days is fashion. For the décor alone it’s worth visiting the boutiques of Ann Demeulemeester (Leopold de Waelplaats, www.anndemeulemeester.be), Walter Van Beirendonck (St Antoniusstraat 12, www.waltervanbeirendonck.com) and Dries Van Noten (Nationalestraat 16; www.driesvannoten.be). For the adventurous, new concept store RA (Kloosterstraat 13, www.ra13.be) houses one of the most audacious displays of contemporary collections from new designers in Europe, plus one-offs and vintage works. Graanmarkt 13 (www.graanmarkt13.be) stocks an exclusive selection of designer pieces in an inventively renovated townhouse. Where to eat: The hottest place in town is Puur Personal Cooking (Edward Pecherstraat 51, tel: +32 0495 83 24 87, www.puurpersonalcooking.be), where the chef cooks for a maximum of 16 people per service on the Aga in his kitchen. For something more traditional visit the art deco D?me (Grote Hondstraat 2, tel: +32 03 239 9003). Fiskebar (Marnixplaats 12/13, tel: +32 03 257 1357, www.fiskebar.be) gets the fish-loving hipsters’ vote for its grills and weekend seafood platters. Where to drink: Though it has some renowned clubs, such as the Café d’Anvers (Verversrui 15, www.cafe-d-anvers.com) in a red-light-district warehouse, Antwerp is more about people-watching from a pavement café in the afternoon than trying to track down seedy bars after dark. Local favourites include Berlin (Kleine Markt 1), Kapitein Zeppos (Vleminckveld 78) and the bars and cafés on Leopold de Waelplaats. Details: See www.antwerpen.be. Antwerp Airport is four miles from the centre, Brussels airport is 27 miles away. Hettie Judah is associate curator of MoMu, design editor of ArtReview and former editor of Belgian magazine The Word

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Forget Barcelona ... Try Gijón The largest city in the Asturias region of northern Spain, Gijón is a place where people live very well indeed, writes Annie Bennett. There are several museums, not to mention an outstanding arts centre, but you don’t want to get bogged down with a to-do list here. This is a place for shopping, sitting around in cafés and trying out Asturian tapas. The triangular city centre lies between two sandy beaches, with the old town, Cimadevilla, on a headland at its apex. Try some Asturian cider in one of the bars around the Plaza Mayor to get you into the laidback Gijón groove. Where to stay: The Hernán Cortés (Calle Fernández Vallín 5, www.hotelhernancortes.es; doubles from ¢59) is the grande dame of Gijón hotels. Right in the centre, it has an old-school elegance untouched by the hand of any groovy designer, which makes a change these days. Its bar and casino make it a bit of a social hub. For a quieter vibe the Quinta Duro (Camino de las Quintas 384, www.hotelquintaduro.com; ¢96) is just outside the centre. An 18th-century mansion set in vast grounds, it has 11 rooms furnished with antiques. What to do: Stroll along the promenade flanking San Lorenzo beach then explore the lanes of Cimadevilla. Cut through to the other coast for a wander round the marina, perhaps with a session in the Talaso Poniente spa (www.talasoponiente.com), before hitting the shops around Calle Corrida. A short cab ride lets you combine the city’s spectacular Laboral arts centre (www.laboralcentrodearte.org) with the vast Atlántico botanic garden (www.botanicoatlantico.com). Where to eat: Michelin-starred chef Javier Loya is at the helm at Avant Garde (Paseo Doctor Fleming, tel: +34 0985 331377), a chic bar and restaurant with a terrace in the NH hotel by San Lorenzo beach. Share a few dishes here, maybe the shellfish dim sum or the sea urchin croquettes. Ciudadela (Capua 7, tel: +34 0985 347732, www.restauranteciudadela.com) is a great place to try contemporary Asturian specialities such as air-dried venison with goats’ cheese or beef chunks with local Afuega’l Pitu cheese. In the rather romantic restaurant dining room at the back try the sea bass with scallops and sea urchin or the fabulous velvety crab soup. Where to drink: The Garamont (Calle Covadonga 5, +34 0985 168776) is a chic spot for after-dinner drinks. Details: See www.gijon.info. Asturias Airport is 26 miles from Gijón. Annie Bennett is the author of guidebooks to Madrid and Barcelona for National Geographic and Blue Guides

--------------------------------------------------------------------Forget Paris ... Try Marseilles One of the charms of Marseilles is that Parisians don’t get it and tend to stay away, writes Lucy Wadham. The joke locally is that, just as the Nazis did, they find the city unruly, ungovernable and too full of Arabs. The “old lady” is, in many ways, more like Algiers or Tunis than any French port, with a thriving mafia and a reputation for corruption. She is also irresistible, as you will find out if you go and stand on the Vieux Port (Old Port) in the evening and savour the light, the deep-blue skies, the golden stone of the buildings and the city rising gently behind you, bold and busy and open-armed to the sea. Recently named European Capital of Culture 2013, one hopes the old lady will not get a face-lift and lose her charm in the process. Where to stay: Opened in 2006, the New Hotel of Marseilles (71 Boulevard Charles Livon, www.new-hotel.com; ¢215) is a design hotel on La Corniche above the Vieux Port. It boasts friendlier service and a bigger pool than the Sofitel Vieux Port next door (36 Boulevard Charles Livon, www.sofitel.com, ¢218) but is without the older chain’s fabulous view. Alternatively, Casa Honore (123 Rue Sainte, www.casahonore.com; ¢150) is a stylish B&B in the back streets behind the Vieux Port. Four airy bedrooms open on to a leafy courtyard with a little pool. Finally, there is Le Petit Nice (Anse de Maldormé, www.petitnice-passedat.com; ¢195), one of the best hotels in France and home to local hero Gérald Passédat’s three-star Michelin restaurant. He breathes new life into bouillabaisse, the tired local speciality, and will take you to gastronomic nirvana with his Breton lobster with sea anemones and caviar. What to do: Have a coffee on the Vieux Port before midday and enjoy the lavish spectacle of the daily fish market, or pick up some fresh sea urchins and wash them down with a glass of Chablis. Go for a stroll in Le Panier, a network of narrow streets on the hill behind the Vieux Port. Walk up La Montée des Accoules to the Place des Moulins and follow signs to La Vieille Charité, a 17th-century Italianate hospice that now houses a museum and gallery (www.vieille-charite-marseille.org). It’s worth spending time on the sea, even if you just take le Ferryboat that runs to and fro across the Vieux Port. Cross over to the Quai de Rive Neuve, walk up to the Abbaye de Saint Victor and see her pre-Christian crypt, originally a Phoenician temple. Climb higher still to reach Notre Dame de la Garde cathedral and read the city’s aching love of the sea in ex-votos all over the walls. Where to eat: La Passerelle (52 Rue Plan-Fourmiguier, tel: +33 06 68 62 77 87) is a sunny garden-restaurant, 100 metres from the Vieux Port, serving organic food. The Café des Epices (4 Rue du Lacydon, tel: +33 (0)4 91 91 22 69, www.cafedesepices.com) is a popular bistro serving good, creative food and a set evening menu for ¢40 that might feature oysters poached in orange or turbot with artichokes. Booking is advisable. Where to drink: La Caravelle (34 Quai du Port) is a jazz bar upstairs in the Hotel Belle-Vue on the Vieux Port. Try to get a table on the balcony so you can listen to the music while enjoying the sunset. Details: See www.marseille-tourisme.com. Marseilles airport is 16 miles from the centre. Lucy Wadham is the author of ‘The Secret Life of France’ (Faber)

不逛威尼斯,试试特拉维索如何?

作者:约翰?布伦顿(John Brunton)

从威尼斯市中心乘火车到特拉维索只要20分钟,却让你感觉来到了另一个世界。

位于初看特拉维索并无特别之处——带阳台的漂亮房子俯瞰着运河,中世纪的教堂尖顶在红瓦屋顶后面突兀而起,咖啡桌径直摆到了鹅卵石铺就的广场上——若无成群游客时。好餐馆随处可见,且没有敲游客竹杠的套餐(menu turistico),而威尼斯本地人对外来游客充其量只是表现出容忍而已,但在特拉维索你会感到扑面而来的亲切感;点的酒水端来时,服务员会笑脸以对,还会赠上一碟小零嘴。Casa dei Carraresi是本地最大的博物馆,它的下次展览(定于11月13日开幕)主题探讨的是艺术家与模特之间的关系,从卡诺瓦(Antonio Canova,他就来自不远处的巴萨诺(Possagno))、梵高(Van Gogh)、毕加索(Picasso)再到沃霍尔(Warhol),不一而足。

住:

特拉维索的出名缘于其小巧而舒适的酒店,而非豪华的五星级宾馆,但位于黎卡提街44号(Via Riccati 44)的酒店新军迈松玛蒂尔达(Maison Matilda,网址:www.maisonmatilda.com;双人间240欧元起)很别致,这是家含早餐的“设计旅馆”(designer B&B),位于一幢雍容华贵的大楼内。位于市中心安奇洛托广场4号(Piazza Ancilotto)的Albergo Il Focolare酒店(网址:www.albergoilfocolare.net;房价100欧元)不能仅用钱来衡量。时尚一族的首选则是位于庞萨诺威尼托波斯图米亚街 63号(Via Postumia 63, Ponzano Veneto)的“摩纳哥庄园酒店”(Relais Monaco,网址:www.relaismonaco.it;房价250欧元),酒店由总部设在特拉维索的贝纳通公司(Benetto)拥有,这家豪华别墅式酒店距城不到4英里,自备游泳池,附近还有自己的高尔夫球场。

行:

除了逛博物馆外,还可参观建于12世纪的大教堂,但是来特拉维索游历更多的是尽情感悟意大利的神韵,而非走马观花匆匆扫过。特拉维索是意大利的时装业中心之一,流连忘返于Calmaggiore街两边一字排开的时装精品店里,会感觉一天时间过得飞快。之后再沿着绿树成荫的布拉内利运河(Buranelli canal)岸边独步,走过富丽堂皇的别墅和中世纪的城墙,是一件再惬意不过的事。漫步于熙熙攘攘的卖鱼店以及邻近的蔬菜水果市场则是嘴馋人的必选,走到不远处鱼店街23号(Via Pescheria 23)的穆斯科利客栈(Osteria Muscoli),品一杯葡萄酒、尝一下烤乳猪(porchetta)同样是必不可少的体验。

食:

本地时尚人士喜欢光顾位于科拉尔多街26号(Via Collalto 26, 电话:+39 0422 540275)的图拉大阿尔弗雷多餐馆(Toula Da Alfredo),但要体味原汁原味的特拉维索,得先在传统饭馆(trattoria)预订一张桌子。位于安奇洛托广场11号的Le Beccherie餐厅(电话:+39 0422 540871)美食如云,以制作美味的甜石榴酱珍珠鸡(faraona alla peverada)著称。位于“下街”7号(Via Inferiore 7,电话:+39 0422 543829)的托尼德尔斯宾(Toni del Spin)是一家用木质板材装饰的美轮美奂的饭店,一天到晚食客如云,是品尝油卤沙丁魚(sarde in saor,用葡萄干、松仁和洋葱炖沙丁鱼)的最佳去处。

喝:

在这个习惯了聚会的小城,夜生活早早就粉墨登场,一般先是喝开胃酒——不妨先尝尝本地人最爱喝的一种名为spritz al bitter 的“苦酒”,它由白葡萄酒、堪培利开胃酒(Campari)和一份搀酒料的苏打勾兑而成。最刺激的地方是位于布拉内利街29号(Via Buranelli 29)的Sottoportico酒馆,游人一直挤到了运河边,另外一个眷顾之处位于博尔戈马志尼50号(Borgo Mazzini 50)的很潮的Mamamia。特拉维索周围全是葡萄园,嗜酒者不应错过位于“果园巷”2号(Vicolo Broli 2)的“矮人酒馆”(Dai Nanetti),这家乡村客栈(rustic osteria)的特色美酒种类繁多、风味独特。

详情:特拉维索旅行社电话:+39 0422 547632;网址:www.provincia.treviso.it。特拉维索机场距离市中心3英里。

约翰·布伦顿是《意大利:众芳飘香的国度》的合著者,此书由Vilo国际出版。

不逛布鲁塞尔,试试安特卫普如何?

作者:海蒂?犹大赫(Hettie Judah)

安特卫普地处斯凯尔特河(River Scheldt)入海口处得天独厚的位置,它经历了几个世纪的精心选址以及群雄之间的角逐争斗。留存下来的遗产是古代与现代建筑相得益彰,古典的巴洛克风格与现代的立体派装饰艺术交相辉映,由罗杰斯事务所(Rogers Stirk Harbour and Partners)、努特林斯?雷代克(Neutelings Riedijk)这些知名建筑师事务所设计的作品接连不断拔地而起,给城市增添了一份现代气息。在安特卫普市中心开车会很遭罪,但若步行则会无比惬意。城南是文化区,M HKA当代艺术博物馆(Leuvenstraat 32, 网址:www.mhka.be)将与皇家美术馆(Leopold De Waelplaats,网址:www.kmska.be)在金秋时节联袂进行安塞姆?基弗(Anselm Kiefer)的作品回顾展(时间从10月23日-2011年元月23日)。沿着“民族大街”(Nationalestraat)朝北走,不一会儿就到了MoMu时装博物馆(民族大街28号,网址:www.momu.be),它北边就是老城区和Eilandje港区,明年春天一座宏伟的城市新博物馆将在那儿正式开馆迎客。

住:

位于卡雷尔罗杰尔大街18号的德拉诺酒店(Maison Delaneau,网址:www.maisondelaneau.com;双人间140欧元起)地处浓郁文化艺术气息的城南,是一家拥有10间客房、不事张扬的豪华酒店。此外,由19世纪末市政厅修葺而成的Boulevard Leopold酒店(Belgi?lei 135,网址:www.boulevard-leopold.be;房价115欧元)具有浓郁的宗教色彩(看看它的宗教艺术品和动物标本剥制术就大体明白了),服务体贴入微,是最理想的入住之处。酒店还出租两套装修特潮的公寓房(房价140欧元起)。

行:

除了参观艺术博物馆和巧夺天工的宝石外,如今安特卫普的一大看点是时装。若想对时装格调稍作了解,安?穆拉米斯特(Ann Demeulemeester)、Walter Van Beirendonck(St Antoniusstraat 12,网址:www.waltervanbeirendonck.com)和范?诺顿(Dries Van Noten)的时装店(民族大街16号;网址:www.driesvannoten.be)就很值得一逛。喜欢新奇刺激的拥趸可以光顾RA新概念店,它出售当代欧洲新锐设计师们最离经叛道的作品,还有一次性和复古风格的服饰。开在原市政厅大楼里的Graanmarkt 13店(网址:www.graanmarkt13.be)则专卖设计师的绝版作品,大楼修缮得很具创意。

食:

城里吃饭最火的地方就是位于爱德华德佩什大街51号(Edward Pecherstraat 51)的Puur Personal Cooking餐馆(电话:+32 0495 83 24 87,网址:www.puurpersonalcooking.be),那儿的厨师用Aga炉一次可以最多为16位顾客炒菜。青睐传统菜的游客可以光顾立体派装饰风格的 D?me餐馆(Grote Hondstraat 2,电话:+32 03 239 9003)。Fiskebar餐馆(位于Marnixplaats 12/13,电话:tel: +32 03 257 1357,网址:www.fiskebar.be)则以烤鱼及周末海鲜大浅盘(seafood platters)大受喜欢吃鱼“潮人”的赞誉。

喝:

安特卫普虽然有Café d’Anvers(Verversrui 15,网址:www.cafe-d-anvers.com)这样位于红灯区、远近闻名的夜总会,但本地人更喜欢下午坐在路边的咖啡屋看着过往行人,而不是在夜幕降临后光顾那些污七八糟的酒吧(seedy bar)。当地人喜欢光顾的酒巴有“柏林”( Kleine Markt 1),Kapitein Zeppos(Vleminckveld 78)以及Leopold de Waelplaats大街上的酒巴与咖啡屋。

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